The Luxe Guide to Venice
Image of Caffè Florian courtesy of @shinesme
“Venice is like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go.” Truman Capote
Indeed Venice is as intoxicating, delicious and surprising as a box of chocolate liqueurs. The shockingly beautiful and utterly unique capital of the Veneto region of Italy is actually 100 small islands connected by 400 bridges. It has no roads, just canals, tight streets and some squares. But you probably already know this. Everyone knows a little something about this jewel-box of a city also known as La Serenissima. This guide is for the woman who has heard all about Venice but is a bit overwhelmed about where to begin. Maybe you’ve already been before but you’re yearning to go back. Perhaps you were rushed when you came and you inundated yourself with all the must-dos, but you didn’t allow yourself the time to inhale it all. This is the relaxed, luxe way to see Venice, full of delights and the little things to notice and seek out. Buyer beware, Venice is expensive!
The pink tinted lanterns in front of Palazzo Ducale
First things first, while planning, give yourself a few days in Venice, don’t come for just one or two nights. On at least one day, you should have no set plans, outside of your lunch and dinner reservations, to allow yourself to just leisurely walk around and discover bridges, nooks and corners. Listen to the locals speak their distinct dialect. Have a coffee standing up at a bar. Take notice of the flowers and trees, the architecture, pink lanterns, street signs, the way the sun glistens on the water, and all the other little things that differentiate Venice from other famous Italian cities.
When to Go
Right now. Covid-19 wreaked havoc on this region but their leadership has managed to get it under control. However the usual crowds have not yet returned. It may never be like this again. If you can’t make it right now a causa del Covid, here are two reasons to make it a priority:
1. It’s sinking and battling flooding and rising sea levels, so it is slowly but surely changing a bit with every passing year.
2. It’s being utterly ruined by the tourist crowds. How you ask? Well, during normal times, in the busier months, you can’t walk at a relaxed pace, get up close to art works, experience any activity without queuing or easily purchase anything authentic. The local artisans are being put out of business by the cheap stores selling tchotchkes to the day trippers. To avoid all this, and the sweltering heat and humidity, go to Venice in the early spring or fall. Winter if you’re bold.
The Transportation Situation
The chicest and stress-free way to arrive is by grabbing a water taxi at the airport. They will get you to the closest port to your lodgings and you don’t have to wait around for others. It’s quite expensive (around 120 euros) so sometimes strangers gather themselves in groups to share, as you can fit up to six people. Otherwise you can take the water bus Alilaguna, which will make multiple stops at specific “stations.”
If you drive to Venice, you should still park at the airport (P4) where there are ample spots and direct transportation. You should book the parking spot in advance - it’s surprisingly straight forward.
While you’re in town, getting around will mostly happen on foot, but to access some of the islands not connected by bridge, you can take a water taxi or a vaporetto which is a water bus.
If you end up taking a lot of water taxis on this trip, you might want to skip a gondola tour. They feel like something you must-do but you’ll be okay if you skip one.
Where to Stay
The internet is already full of Venice guides and lists of where to stay, but to experience something unique, we suggest this 13th-century Venetian palazzo that has been converted into four apartments of varying sizes, one more luxurious than the next. The modern and sumptuous apartments, complete with Carrara marble, travertine limestone in the bathrooms, rare woods and deliciously soft beds, will be a welcome reprieve from this ancient city rife with classical decor. It’s perfectly located on one of the less-trafficked squares, Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. It’s a short walk in either direction to the Rialto Bridge or Saint Mark’s Square and it sits above a wonderful historical cafe/bakery, Rosa Salva (beware of their staff that seem to be a bit hostile to tourists). Finally if you plan to use a water taxi or two, there’s a dock right in front. If not, the Ospedale stop is under 10 minutes away.
Image courtesy of Palazzo Cristo
Image courtesy of Palazzo Cristo
Where to Eat
Venice has a wonderful food culture. The way to experience it is to not be swayed into the tourist traps that station a person outside to lure you in and instead do some research and make reservations! Don’t worry, lots of the restaurants have an online booking option.
Be on the look out for cicchetti or "cicheti" in Venetian dialect, which are small snacks or side dishes, typically served in cicchetti bars, osterie or trattorie. They’re sort of like the Venetian version of tapas and are great for sharing over a glass of wine.
Conde Nast Traveller once declared Da Fiore the best restaurant in Venice. We’re not sure about that honor because the competition is so strong and it depends on what you order, but what we can confidently declare it as having is one of the best Bellinis in the world. The restaurant only has one table for outside seating, perched on a tiny balcony over the canal, but don’t fret, you may just appreciate eating under air conditioning during the hot summer months. The food is splendid and the staff is super professional. It takes itself seriously but you’ll be grateful for it.
Cip’s Club at Belmond Cipriani
This is a restaurant frequented by the elusive Venetian locals. The menu is comprehensive but their daily specials is really where you get a treat. Aside from the delightful food, the decor details are impossibly charming. The walls are adorned by sketches made by former prominent guests, if that’s your sort of thing. The cats and birds on the tables are actually salt shakers, but the piece de resistance are the Carraro illustrated plates and menu.
It’s very expensive and everybody goes, but it’s worth it to sit at this famous and centuries old establishment on Saint Mark’s Square to take in the scenery while listening to live classical music. Be sure to step inside and take a look at the elaborate decor.
The interiors of this trattoria are simple and the clientele is mostly local. The food is inventive and the service, warm.
Among the best trattorias in Venice and a great place to try cicchetti.
Located at the base of the Rialto bridge, Amo is a very elegant bar known for cocktails.
Gran Caffè Quadri/ Quadrino/Quadri
A historic landmark on Piazza San Marco that has been around since the 1800’s. Recently redesigned by Phillipe Starch, it offers three different options for a wonderful dining experience.
Gran Caffè Quadri is the most relaxed option, offering an outdoor caffè experience. It’s another elegant way to take in Saint Mark’s Square over pastries, good coffee and or cocktails, served by a professional and present staff.
Quadrino is the casual restaurant located on the ground floor, next to the bar. But don’t let the work “casual” fool you into expecting bare decor, expect brass details, tufted leather seats, wall paper and paintings. The constantly changing menu offers traditional food made with seasonal, genuine ingredients.
Quadri is the one Michelin star, formal and most expensive option on the top floor, offering gourmet tasting menus and lovely views of the piazza below. Dress for the occasion and be treated like a queen among other mostly international diners.
Cip’s Club is the more informal of the three restaurants at the Belmond Hotel Cipriani on the island of Giudecca. It only offers alfresco dining and hosts romantic views of Saint Mark’s Square. You can do better with food at the other places mentioned above, but it may be worth visiting so you don’t feel like you missed out on a place that most of your friends have probably already been. Arrive in style by water taxi for a seamless entrance otherwise you can take a vaporetto, but then you’ll have to walk a few minutes from the stop to the restaurant.
The bar famous for inventing the Bellini and for having been frequented by many literary greats of the past.
What to See
Image of Saint Mark’s Square courtesy of @meerimt
Also know as Piazza San Marco or la Piazza by Venetians, It’s the largest square in Venice and the center of the city. It is here that Caffè Florian and a litany of other charming restaurants and cafés sit. At the tip is Basilica San Marco, which is attached to the decadent Palazzo Ducale, or Doge’s Palace which functioned as the home and headquarters of the Doge’s (sort of like Kings) of Venice. The Palazzo houses assembly halls, apartments, and prisons including the famous Bridge of Sighs.
Keep your eyes open for the pink tinted lanterns that light the square. Take note of the two 12th century columns on which sit statues of Venice's two patron saints: Saint Mark in the form of a winged lion, and Saint Teodoro. Listen to the sounds of the music playing at the various caffès as well as the ringing of the basilica’s bells. Just be here.
The splendor of Teatro La Fenice
Byzantine, Islamic, and Western European influences can be found throughout this intricately designed cathedral also known as Saint Mark’s Basilica. Outside, the upper levels of the front of the church holds intricate mosaics and scenes from the Life of Christ. Look out for the statue of the Four Tetrarchs which date back to ancient Rome. When you read a little bit about their history, you will be shocked at how casually such old and priceless works are perched on the outside of the basilica. If you choose to go into Saint Mark’s (don’t feel bad if you don’t) take in the marble floor, and the gold mosaics that cover almost the entire upper parts of the church. Look up!
Walk over and around the structure and take in some of the most breathtaking views of Venice. At the right time of evening, when there’s just a bit of sunlight remaining but the street lights are on and the moon is out, you may wonder if you are actually in a painting.
A smaller but impactful museum most known for the collection of Tintoretto paintings. Remember to breathe when you encounter the opulence of the Salone Maggiore. Don’t forget to look up!
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
Come for two important Titian altarpieces, Assumption of the Virgin and Madonna di Ca’ Pesaro, stay for the dramatic monument dedicated to the doge Giovanni Pesaro. Walk around this great gothic church. Notice the way the sun rays pierce the alter almost as if the Holy Spirit was making an entrance. The ceilings are so high and the choir stalls will take your breath away. Also worth looking for are the monuments to various famous Venetians including Titian himself.
Image of Scuola Grande di San Rocco courtesy of @lucasmasero
Don’t be fooled by the reserved exterior of one of the most famous and important opera houses in the world. The interior will shock you with its splendor. The venue has been rebuilt and modified due to fire and the egos of great men, such as Napoleon, but it all seems to have worked. Take note of the moldings, marble columns and crystal chandeliers in the foyer. In the main house look up at the ceiling which gives the optical illusion of a domed ceiling. Take in the gold and the paintings of singing cherubs in the main room. Make your way to the opulent royal box and try to restrain yourself from gasping. Do a little dance in the ballroom or Sala Grande.
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
The church with the famous and visible dome was built as an offering for the city’s deliverance from a devastating outbreak of plague and can be found in various Canaletto and Turner paintings. It sits right in front of the Grand Canal, over the water from Saint Mark’s Square and a few minutes walk from the Guggenheim Collection. Notable inside are the Titian, Tintoretto and Luca Giordano works.
The museum is actually an 18th century Palazzo in which Peggy Guggenheim lived and amassed her impressive art collection. It includes works by artists such as Pablo Picasso, Amadeo Modigliani, Fernand Léger, Joan Miró, Alexander Calder and many others. Besides the impressive collection and garden, the property also hosts a spectacular view of the Grand Canal.
Where to Shop
A very elegant old-world style boutique or 3, as they also have a men’s store and a home decor location nearby, all in the San Marco area. It can be refreshing to shop in a store owned by an actual venetian rather than from one of the big brands that you can get anywhere else in the world.
But if you still want the big brands, Gucci, Chanel, Hermes, are all also close by, in the San Marco area.
The historic Fondaco dei Tedeschi building was in built 1228 as a trading hall in the heart of the Rialto market area. Since then, it has seen a number of incarnations from a customs hall, to a post office, to its current usage as a department store. It houses hundreds of brands including luxury and locally made products. Look, the building is aimed at tourists so our recommendation would not be to spend a lot of time here. Instead, aim for the rooftop terrace that hosts 360 degree views of the city.
Rooftop views from Fondaco dei Tedeschi courtesy of @designedtotravel.ro
Window bars and pipes are painted to match the building colors
Murano and Burano
Murano is a group of islands connected by bridges just under a mile from Venice, and technically still Venice. It is world known for glass making and most of the nice restaurants in Venice use Murano glass. It was once very popular to go and watch the glass blowers make their world-famous creations, but due to Covid-19, a lot of them are closed, though it’s not clear if temporarily or permanently. You can get to Murano via vaporetto in under 20 minutes from Venice. The vaporetto ride is usually crowded and not terribly comfortable. We would not classify Murano as an absolute “must see” as you can buy authentic Murano glass in Venice. Instead take a vaporetto from either Fondamente Nove (35 mins) or San Marco(1 hour) to an island called Mazzorbo and have lunch at a restaurant and vineyard called Venissa. The place actually has two options for dining, a restaurant, or a more casual but equally relaxing and elegant osteria. For a truly special experience they can arrange for you, a 7-course tasting menu which includes a private round-trip via water taxi for $175 per person. Otherwise come for lunch and walk to Burano immediately after, as it is a beautiful, short distance away. Burano is a truly special place worth the 50-minute boat journey from Venice. It is full of brightly colored houses and known for lacemaking. As you first walk into the small town, you’re greeted by a red building that houses a shop called Martina Vidal which makes beautiful, though expensive lace and linens. If you don’t end up buying anything there, allow yourself to be charmed by the older woman in the process of lacemaking right in the middle of the shop. Walk around and take unforgettable photos in this picturesque town.
Getting in the Venice Mood
Read The City of Falling Angels by John Berendt which tells the true story of the most recent fire at La Fenice and gives you an intimate look into the lives and attitudes of Venetians.
Artists to study Titian, Luca Giordano , Tintoretto, Canaletto.
Films/Shows that shot some beautiful scenes in Venice: The Talented Mr. Ripley, Brideshead Revisited, The Wings of the Dove, The Tourist.
Cover Image courtesy of @leavetoworld